I finally wrote off another pair of jeans while on a holiday. I ripped them after I frayed the crotch of them within an inch of their life. Granted these were only Primark that I had grabbed after my River Island ones bit the dust and I couldn't be bothered (or afford) to replace them.
I go through jeans quite quickly because I live in them. But for someone who lives in denim, I am a terror for replacing them. I hate jean shopping and I have slipped into a routine of grabbing the nearest pair of cheap black skinny jeans from the closest high street store
It finally hit home for me this week just how bad my habit of cheap jeans actually is.
I have been reading Dana Thomas' new book, Fashionopolis. I'm a big fan of Thomas as I've read her previous work (and raved about on here) and I am really enjoying it. The chapter about denim and sustainable cotton hit home and it hit hard.
So how bad is it?
Jeans are made from cotton which uses 2.4% of the world's crop land and 24% of its pesticides. Up to 2000 gallons of water are needed to make an average pair of jeans. That's enough to fill 20 bath tubs.
The chemicals needed are also turning up in rivers near factories as they run off the product and are dumped into the water. This isn't just chemicals but also the synthetic indigo dye that makes the denim blue. It's so bad that an entire river in China is now indigo blue. China is the denim capital of the world as it makes a third of all the jeans in the world. In particular, Xintang is so bad for pollution that people refuse to work in the factories there. They produce about 300 million denim articles per year.
It's not just the standard blue jeans that are causing havoc but the stonewashed and distressed versions too. The chemical dyes that make jeans 'distressed' are intensive and causing workers serious health risks as they are exposed during the process. Making the stonewashed jeans involves taking sand and pouring it into an airgun before blasting denim. The quick yet cheap method creates the effect but it is harmful to workers as the main ingredient is silica.
What can we do?
There is a way forward that means we don't have to give up on our favourite clothing.
1) Start asking questions
Ask your favourite brands where they manufacture, who supplies and if their raw materials are sustainable. Chances are, if it's a £15 pair of denims then it won't be.
2) Pay more
I know this isn't an option for a lot of people out there but if you have the means to then pay more to keep your clothing clean. Not to mention use sales, outlets and recycled denims from charity shops.
3) Research
There are companies out there dedicated to fair wages, clean production, organic cotton and safe practises. Find them, use them and keep them in business.
4) Sew
I am guilty of this. I can't sew properly because I've never learned. I am determined this year to learn how as I want to learn how to repair clothing once it rips. I have bought some patches this week in order to repair some shoes rather then throw them out but I could be a lot better.
I've just ordered my first pair of black skinny jeans from a sustainable company. While I haven't got them yet to write about how effective they are or what the journey into online jean shop is like, I have to admit I like what I've seen
Monkee Genes use organically grown cotton to make their denims which produces 46% less C02 emissions. It also avoids using toxins or pesticides which keeps the local wildlife happy and the workers safe. They use 80% less water to produce the denim along with plant based packaging. I'm not doing it justice so check out their sustainable processes here
I will report back once I know if they fit!
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