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Where Fashion Stands in the COVID-19 Crisis - WWD

lazanmakeup Nisan 12, 2021

Where Fashion Stands in the COVID-19 Crisis - WWD

Where Fashion Stands in the COVID-19 Crisis - WWD

Posted: 28 Mar 2020 12:00 AM PDT

Coronavirus has left salon workers and beauty freelancers jobless. ⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ The personal-care mandate, intended to slow the coronavirus' spread, has left some salon owners with the tough decision of laying off their staff members. In other cases, self-employed beauty professionals are now gig-less, with no time frame for when they might resume taking clients.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ "As a freelancer, you always prepare for slow times 'cause you can never predict it, but this is indefinite," said Amanda Wilson, a hair and makeup artist.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ In a statement, Glamsquad ceo Amy Shecter said that the company is working with the government to "identify opportunities" to support its beauty professionals.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ "We are thinking creatively about how to reimagine Glamsquad during this pause, and we are exploring everything from special virtual services to curated content that would allow both our clients and pros to remain involved in the Glamsquad community," said Shecter.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Personal care workers and beauty freelancers need relief now.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Beauty search engine Mira has launched a COVID-19 relief fund for beauty freelancers. Last week, it raised $10,000 and is offering individual stipends of $100.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ One beauty entrepreneur doing her part to help out is Huda Kattan. The influencer and Huda Beauty ceo revealed on social media that she will give $100,000 to freelance makeup artists, making her one of the few major beauty influencers to publicly offer financial assistance during this time.⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Tap the link in bio for more. ⁣⁣ ⁣⁣ Report: @alexa_tietjen ⁣ 📸: @lexieblacklock⁣ ⁣ —⁣ #wwdbeauty⁣ #beautyinc⁣ #coronavirus⁣ #beauty⁣ #makeupartist

The world’s top fashion schools scramble to teach rising talent remotely - Vogue Business

Posted: 29 Mar 2020 09:55 PM PDT

Key takeaways:

  • Fashion schools are being forced to teach from home, leading to significant adaptations to course materials and assessments.

  • Some have been able to expedite experiments in digital learning, reporting positive student feedback on some online elements.

  • But not everything can be handled online, and educators are looking forward to getting back into the classroom and reviving the collaborative campus environment.

For students at Central Saint Martins (CSM) in London, the decision by the school to close its academic buildings on 23 March came at a fraught time. Easter break is typically characterised by frenzied preparation for the summer graduation shows. Due to forces well beyond the universities' control, students are now reckoning with the fact that their three years of work may not get the amplification it usually does.

"It takes a while for people to digest that information," says Hywel Davies, the programme director for BA Fashion at the college. The summer shows are postponed until further notice (they hope to do something later in the year), but Davies will lean on CSM's extensive alumni network and media connections to make sure that the students' work gets seen in some form. It is one of the many challenges that the world's leading fashion schools are facing as they, like much of the wider industry, work out how to function remotely.

These schools — including CSM, the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), Polimoda and Istituto Marangoni — have had to make significant changes in a matter of weeks as the Covid-19 outbreak spread globally. Chief among the issues is that fashion instruction is so typically hands-on, with many of these institutions boasting small class sizes and access to top quality equipment as part of their offer to woo students. Failing to get it right has the potential to lead to student backlash, which is already happening to other creative colleges.

In some cases, institutions have rapidly accelerated planned developments, like rolling out online courses. In others, adaptation has boiled down to creative solutions for how students can complete their education during citywide lockdowns.

Expensive equipment, rendered inaccessible

Some aspects of a fashion programme just cannot be taught remotely. A majority of students are now deprived of the knitting machines, looms, weaves and other specialist equipment they would typically be learning and practicing on at campus. "If I am requiring you to use our knitting machines that we have, if I'm requiring you to learn how to weave, that's going to be very difficult to do," says Shawn Grain Carter, a professor at FIT in New York. "It's not like students have a blowtorch in their own mini lab at home."

FIT suspended classes between 16 and 22 March so faculty could adjust their syllabuses and work out what parts could feasibly be taught online. While Grain Carter says that instruction in practical skills will take considerably longer and may require, for example, sending videos back and forth to correct a student's technique, she thinks that creative solutions are possible. "You can teach draping online. No, you will not have a mannequin to use to drape your clothes. But you might have another person that you're at home with."

Other schools around the world have taken differing approaches to the problem. Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) in Paris allowed all fashion and design students to take equipment like sewing machines and mannequins home with them, though some had already left the country by the time the decision was made. Professors will continue to offer remote coaching in these skills and are attempting to help students that did not manage to get the equipment required, such as by posting fabrics and materials to the students' home addresses.

Polimoda in Florence explored taking a similar tack, but found it impractical. Instead, they are moving all of their courses online, but fashion design students will be allowed to use workshops in the Summer to make up for the time they missed. Istituto Marangoni's colleges around the world were able to take lessons from its Chinese and Italian schools, which were the first to switch to online, on what courses work remotely and move their syllabus around to hopefully minimise the impact.

Central Saint Martins meanwhile are reducing the requirements to pass this year, with an emphasis placed on what the ideas are in a creative's work rather than the execution. "It's very clear that they're not going to be marked on what they have access to. So it's going to be completely fair," says Davies, who notes that students have already submitted a considerable amount of work up until now upon which their final grade can be based.

What works remotely

Theoretical courses are considerably easier to operate digitally, with the schools making full use of educational or business conferencing platforms like Moodle, Blackboard and Zoom to offer lectures in subjects including fashion business and communication.

Danilo Venturi, director of Polimoda, says that this has sped up the move to increase the number of online tutorials, and that the school hopes to deliver 20 per cent of its courses via Blackboard in future academic years. He anticipates this will likely lead to better attendance over the year, particularly when students are approaching their exam period and may not want to travel into campus. It also allows schools to utilise lecturers and professors based abroad, without requiring them to fly in to teach.

Indeed, every single one of Istituto Marangoni's colleges across the world has reported a slight increased attendance since they switched to online working, says Mevin Murden, director of education at their London school. "For some lessons, like software demonstrations, students are finding the online lessons are better than the actual face-to-face lessons and we might keep this in the future."

Polimoda also held an online open day earlier in March, where potential attendees could hear from different course leaders about why they should come and study in Florence. Venturi says that the attendance was "massive" and that they are likely to use the format again in the future. IFM are also somewhat versed in digital education, having run an open online course last September that drew 10,000 subscribers. They announced last week that their second iteration will begin today, with the CEOs of Chanel, LVMH, Saint Laurent and Hermès all making contributions via video interview.

Others are more cautious about going too far in endorsing online education. Grain Carter says that it is difficult to know if students have digested the points of lessons when a lecturer is not physically there with them. She is confident that FIT's teaching standards can be upheld remotely, but that it definitely is not the preference for the college. "We're about total engagement in the classroom with small student class sizes to really customise the learning experience," she says. Practical challenges still remain in this format, like ensuring that all students have internet access and necessary programmes, like Adobe Creative Suite.

Providing support

Further challenges are likely to arise as the year goes on in these newly minted virtual fashion schools. Faculty have to adjust their teaching methods and their personal routines, while students who are so used to bouncing ideas off their peer groups will in many cases have to get used to working in isolation.

The collaborative culture that exists in a university is something that Davies does not want to be a casualty of the Covid-19 epic. To that end, his team meets regularly via online conference calls to check in on what one another is doing. For students though, who may make use of the multidisciplinary nature of their school and seek help from fellow students on different courses, they may find that harder to carry out in a typical fashion.

"It's a whole different set of challenges and hopefully opportunities, because it makes people have to reach wider in some ways," he says. "They can't actually physically do the shoot so what can they do digitally?"

As the end of the term nears, Davies says CSM will ask students to create a 90-second film showcasing the story of their collection as a partial substitution for the end-of-year event. Nevertheless, he thinks the creativity of the students will shine through however the work is showcased. "That's what they do on a daily basis."

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Valley fashion designer makes face masks for healthcare workers - Monitor

Posted: 29 Mar 2020 06:14 PM PDT

HARLINGEN — Laisa Chavez Macias stays busy and inside her home these days with an order of more than 300 face masks to complete.

The local fashion designer and entrepreneur decided to use old fabrics to create face masks and donate them to healthcare workers.

Macias said she has several friends in the healthcare community who were running out of masks and expressed their concerns to her.

"They have to re-use their masks everyday, but these have a pocket where you can put a filter and switch it out," Macias said.

Last week, Macias had boxes of air filters donated to her by a friend to place inside her masks.

"Whenever I found out people needed them, I thought, 'Well, I am just going to make them. I have supplies,'" she said.

Macias posted on Facebook telling friends and family she was masking masks, but without the intention of creating a social media movement, she said.

But it happened.

"People started reaching out and telling me where they work, with the elderly or at a nursing home," she said.

"I decided to start doing them and donate them, and they come pick them up," Macias said.

They come in colorful prints, some have floral patterns and others bright colors. Macias said the elastic is adjustable for nose and ears as well.

Since her Facebook post, Macias has been sewing every day to meet her orders.

At the moment, she is no longer taking orders because of the long list of people needing masks.

Even though Macias is a fashion designer and has created gowns and even wedding dresses, this is her first time making masks.

Laisa Chavez Macias, a local fashion designer, has started making face masks, which she donates to health care workers and those in need. (Elsa Cavazos/Valley Morning Star)

"I used a tutorial online that was approved by the CDC, which said something is better than nothing. They are a 100% cotton and have two pieces of fabric and a pocket for the filter," Macias said.

"It is my first journey in mask making," she said.

People express words of gratitude and appreciation when she gives them their new masks, she said.

"I think they are glad they now have something to wear and be able to disinfect it," Macias said.

Her good deed has been followed by others, Macias said, with more people also offering to make and donate masks, such as the Handmaid Harlingen group.

Though making masks for others were in her plans, Macias said she did not think it would get to be as busy as it has been.

"I guess I did not realize about the need. A lot of big cities seemed to have a big need, but as soon as I posted, all these messages were popping on my message requests," she said.

"I got back to as many as I could. They are all in health care and stressed out. It is a scary time, but I think them having it makes them feel better and that makes me feel better," Macias said.

How Responsible Beauty, Wellness And Fashion Labels Are Connecting With Us During The Coronavirus Pandemic - Forbes

Posted: 30 Mar 2020 03:45 AM PDT

They call this extraordinary times. Unprecedented, uncertain, indefinite and evolving by the day. When lockdown was first implemented throughout the National Capital Region of the Philippines, no one quite knew how best to respond. As a consumer, primary instinct was to stock up on essentials like food, medicine, and supplies for keeping sanitized.

Among business owners of non essential goods, the main concern was how to stay afloat. How would operations run? How do you balance out obligation towards your employees and suppliers vis-a-vis the one single fact that business was not going to run as usual.  During the onset of what was referred to in my part of the globe as "community quarantine," businesses were advised to operate with skeletal force. The rest were encouraged to work from home. Only a few days in, and all if not most offices were asked close. Again, until further notice.

From a marketing, PR and communications standpoint, adapting to drastic changes as the events of the pandemic unfold was a challenge. It was also a practice in tuning into other people's sensitivities. There were launches, months in the making, that had to be put off. Goals had to be realigned with focus on public service or offering any form of support to help alleviate the current situation. Interacting with a consumer had to take on a new tone. It was one that conveyed a sincere aim for imparting inspiration and courage.

Throughout the course of two weeks, I have unsubscribed to several newsletters that, despite the times, tried to convince me to spend my money on their products. Accounts on Instagram that continue to push for sales without regard for what's been happening were unfollowed without a moment's hesitation. Make no mistake, these were mostly designer favorites or go-to IG accounts that used to bring me so much consumer joy. Seeing their take on "business as usual" at a time when the rest of the world fights for lives and livelihoods, left a bitter taste in my mouth.

I'd like to think that I share the same level of sensitivity (and common sense) with many others. Observing how individuals, organizations and enterprises respond to a crisis of this scale brings to light several silver linings. It inspires creativity, driven by a sincere desire to help. This has also distinguished those who can walk the talk where being socially responsibly is concerned.

WHEN BIG BRANDS COME TOGETHER

LVMH is a stellar example of how luxury is utilizing its resources and creativity to helping fight the Coronavirus pandemic. On March 16, the company announced that its makeup and fragrance facilities covering brands like Dior and Guerlain, would start producing hand disinfectants. These would be donated to the Assistance Publique-Hopitaux de Paris. I close friend and colleague of mine through Viber sent me this photo of the uber chic hand sanitizers and commented: "I bet one day in the future, these will become commemorative, collector's item products."

Gucci has donated €2 million and continues to raise funds through its community. The company discloses that funds raised will be used in the production of more ICU beds for hospitals in Italy. Other companies like Prada, Armani, Bvlgari, and Hugo Boss are allocating funds to donate to various hospitals and research centers fighting against COVID-19. They are also utilizing their workshops for the production of more hospital gowns, protective suits and masks.

SMALL BUSINESSES SET THE TONE FOR CHARITY AND RECOVERY

Smaller, local businesses in the industry are also pulling their weight in this effort. New York-based, family-owned designer rental site, Vivrelle, has committed 10% of all their membership fees to local NYC hospitals and charities. The team adds, "We have also donated to local favorite SAUCE PIZZERIA, a Southern Italian restaurant with three NYC locations. The benefit of this donation is two fold. First, the money aids Sauce, a local eatery experiencing the harsh financial effort of the city's mandated closure of bars, shops and restaurants. Second, Viverelle's donation is going towards pizza pies that will be feeding nurses, hospital staff, and doctor who are fighting on the frontliners against Covid-19."

Beauty company, FARMACY, has also been quick to respond to the the need to support those whose bellies will go empty due to the closures and lockdowns. In its press release sent last March 17, the company shared that they are "pledging to donate 10,000 meals a day over the next 30 days to FEEDING AMERICA, the nation's largest hunger relief organization." The indie beauty brand has been planning to partner with the organization even before the pandemic broke, but decided to mobilize efforts to ensure that the most vulnerable populations get the funds and resources they need. The communications team at Farmacy furthers, "We encourage our community to do the same, even if it's just generating awareness for the work FEEDING AMERICA is doing." Farmacy has also setup a donation page on its website.

Similarly, fashion brand CULT GAIA will be donating 10% of its sales to NO KID HUNGRY. Due to closure of schools, millions of children are unable to avail of the school meals they depend on. To these children these meals are the only sources they rely on for nutrition. Cult Gaia is embracing a mission to help feed these children while schools are closed. The team expresses, "We are fortunate enough to have the platform to support an organization that does so much and encourage you to donate, even if you are unable to purchase on our site."

STRENGTH IN COMMUNITIES

Now more than ever, the word community is being thoughtfully utilized to ease a shared feeling of fear, isolation, and uncertainty. Companies in the fitness and wellness categories, most specifically, are using their social media platforms to stay connected with customers. Free online workouts, meditation sessions and interactive activities on nutrition are not only most of us who are on lockdown physically fit, they also help in keeping mental health in check.

Fitness studios in Manila now temporarily closed have began offering free online classes each day. Indoor cycling instructors from Electric Studio have been brining their distinct brand of energy and verve through home workouts that go live throughout the day on Instagram. Coaches from One Life Studio are sharing some pretty amazing Pilates workouts that suit all levels. Their Exercise Series is ideal when you don't have Pilates equipment and want a safe yet effective workout to help you stay on track with your health goals. Fit To Live offers group classes done through Zoom which is, at least for now, the closest you can possibly get to a one-on-one workout session. Elev8 Studio is also serving up slow resistance training during quarantine to help achieve the body of steel.

Community meditation sessions by Sara Black through I Go Beyond Yoga's Facebook Page is a safe space for discovering the power of breath and meditation. She writes: "There is a powerful shift happening on Earth right now. Let's take the opportunity to listen deeply, so that the lessons from this challenge aren't wasted in vain, and really transform us towards more love and compassion." Black is also offering free meditation courses for front liners to help them cope with trauma and stress at work. As of March 22, Sara has connected with 150 front liners through the Strength and Stability Meditation Support group.

PHILIPPINE FASHION FOR FRONT LINERS

Independent fashion designers in the Philippines are also working towards supporting front liners during this crisis. On March 22, the Fashion and Design Council of the Philippines called out to the whole industry to help create PPE suits. An initiative helmed by designer Mich Dulce, this movement urges fabric suppliers to provide non woven fabrics that designers and their workshops can utilize to create suits. Patterns are based off gear lent by the Vice President of the Philippines Leni Robredo in support of the project. They have so far partnered with the Manila Protective Sewing Club as well as the Office of the Vice President of the Philippines in the procurement of materials, production of suits and distribution.



Nigeria coronavirus: Fashion designers take on virus with rhinestone-studded face masks - The - The Washington Post

Posted: 30 Mar 2020 03:59 AM PDT

Then it clicked: Protective gear could use more glamour.

Now, seven tailors have moved into her mansion in the commercial capital, Lagos, as business in Africa's largest economy crawls to a halt. They're wearing custom hazmat suits and sewing glittery, rhinestone-studded face masks for sale and donation.

With a giant asterisk, of course: Even medical-grade coverage isn't guaranteed to stop the novel coronavirus. But while the effectiveness of homemade masks is unproven, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, they're better than none in last-resort situations, which is why tailors around the world are stitching substitutes in the face of a global shortage. The American company that makes Major League Baseball uniforms, for instance, is cutting pinstriped masks from jersey material.

Lawani's pieces, made to match ball gowns and bikinis, are meant to raise awareness, she said.

Lagos has more than twice the population of New York City and a robust fashion scene, where designers have long harnessed style as a tool for communication.

The city's runways have promoted recycling, gender equality and traditional African artistry — themes meant to nourish the greater good, said Omoyemi Akerele, founder of Lagos Fashion Week. Some fashion houses are consulting doctors, she said, and sourcing fabric for mask production. (The community has also donated soap to garment workers.)

"Fashion is a voice for change," she said. "It can save lives."

Many in Nigeria — and the United States — haven't grasped the severity of the coronavirus threat. Warnings from celebrities can help. (The U.S. surgeon general urged Kylie Jenner, for instance, to inform her 167 million Instagram followers about the importance of social distancing.)

"Initially I thought: 'Guys, come on, these masks won't do anything,' " Akerele said of the blinged-out variety. "Then I realized it was a statement: Be responsible. You have to do the right thing."

Lawani's designs took off with a question from a bygone era: What do we wear to the party?

The party — the Africa Magic Viewers Choice Awards — commands Oscars-level star power and millions of viewers from 50 countries in normal times. This year's parade of Nollywood stars and reality TV contestants kicked off about two weeks ago.

Nigeria had confirmed only two cases at the time. (Saturday's count: more than 80.) The pandemic hadn't reached the Lagos fete, and Lawani needed to whip up looks for her elite customers.

"I said, 'Make me an outfit that will pass a message to Nigerians,' and she was like, 'Say no more,' " said Omashola Kola Oburoh, a Big Brother Naija finalist with 756,000 Instagram followers.

He sported a shimmery pinkish silver suit with three-dimensional fabric skulls on the chest and a matching face mask. The choice went viral.

Ifu Ennada, a beauty influencer with 1.3 million Instagram followers, adorned her mouth with lace and jewels. Hundreds of messages flooded her inbox: Where did she get that mask?

"Everything I do is always out there in the public," Ennada said. "I'm trying to educate people. To inspire them to stay cautious and stay safe."

Face masks have become controversial in this time of pandemic. Stockpiling them depletes the supply for health-care workers, medical professionals warn. Yet all types have flown off the shelves in Nigeria and practically everywhere else.

The humble equipment is making headlines. Chinese billionaire Jack Ma just sent 5.4 million surgical masks to Ethiopia, a care package to be distributed continentwide. High-end retailers, such as Prada, have shifted focus from summer streetwear to masks.

Folu Storms, a radio host and actress in Lagos, sparked buzz with her rhinestone-embellished mask — an Afrofuturist look, she said, in the coronavirus context — on the red carpet before deciding to self-isolate in her apartment.

She's calling on others to do the same in her popular podcasts.

"We all need to stay home," Storms said.

Schools, churches and offices in Lagos are now shuttered. International flights are suspended. Chinese fabric merchants aren't landing with new loads of silk and cotton. Nigerian factories aren't churning out the goods, either.

Lawani, the celebrity stylist, is relying on her personal stash.

Her team has received hundreds of orders. Prices vary. They've sent 1,000 free masks to charities.

"Didn't sleep all night," she posted Wednesday on Instagram. "Still working on production with my tailors/managers who put their lives on the line to help the public."

The tailors follow strict hand-washing schedules. Regular dance breaks lift moods.

"I'm very happy," said one, 33-year-old Shamsudeen Abdullahi Olabode, in a WhatsApp voice message. "Very comfortable."

But it's unclear how long work can last. The glitter is fleeting.

"We can't go to the market," the tailor said. "We can't get the material we need right now."
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